The rise of concern based skincare
01 Feb 2018

Skincare gets personal

As skincare professionals, clients seeking treatments for skin concerns such as acne, rosacea, pigmentation, dry, sensitive or fine lines/wrinkles is witnessed on a daily basis. Research from the British Skin Foundation has found that 60% of British people currently suffer from or have suffered from a skin condition at some point during their lifetime.

When it comes to skincare efficacy, a ‘one size fits all’ approach is no longer enough. Discerning clients armed with more information via the internet, reality programmes and social commentary, want to treat specific skin concerns to benefit from skincare regimes tailored to meet their personal needs. 

Skin concern? What skin concern? 

When looking at skin concerns, it appears that overall, both men and women are paying more attention to the ‘what’ and the ‘how to resolve it’. A recent study of 92 dermatology clinics found a 200% rise in the number of adults seeking specialist acne treatment1. Other skin conditions on the rise include rosacea and pigmentation. Rosacea treatment enquiries are up by 92%, double compared to the year before. Hyperpigmentation, caused by the overproduction of melanin resulting in darker patches on the skin, can not only make skin look uneven but can also give the appearance of aged skin.

What has caused this rise in skin concerns? Note; a few modern day factors that have huge impact. 

Diet – Sugar and processed foods 

Diets high in sugar, lacking nutrients and full of processed foods can lead to a host of adverse health issues, including heart disease, weight gain and also skin problems. Yet, as a nation, we are consuming more sugar and processed foods than ever before. The World Health Organisation has stated that people should aim to get just 5% of their daily calories from sugary foods. However, the average is 12.3% for adults under 65 according to the national diet and nutrition survey (NDNS). Sugar can trigger a spike in blood sugar levels. This increases levels of insulin that can cause skin problems such as acne and rosacea. In fact, an overview of research carried out over the past 50 years has found that eating foods with a high glycaemic index (GI) not only aggravated acne, but in some cases triggered it, too2. 

Hormones and Stress Factors

A survey of 4,000 people3 found that four out of five adults feel stressed during a typical week, while almost one in ten were stressed all the time. There is now a greater understanding of the link between stress and adverse effects on skin health. For example, stress hormones trigger overproduction of sebum that can create or worsen acne. Raised levels of stress hormones promote transepidermal water loss resulting in dry and dull skin appearance. While in general, hormonal imbalances can play havoc on the health of skin whether caused by stress or other factors such as PMS, pregnancy, puberty and menopause.

Environmental Factors

Daily exposure to free radicals, including pollution, UVA/UBA rays can also lead to various skin issues. Air pollution can lead to premature ageing by accelerating wrinkles and age spots, according to emerging scientific research4. Clients reporting sun damage is also very common. Although more than eight out of 10 people are worried about skin cancer, 72% have been sunburnt in the past year5.

UVA rays are particularly dangerous because they don’t cause burning, so there’s no immediate sign that any damage is being done. In fact, the tell-tale pigmentation marks, excessive wrinkles and leathery texture often don’t become apparent until many years later. 

2018 - Stand and deliver. The move to 21st Century skincare

Personalised and information based skincare is the future. Providing a consultative approach enables client confidence and loyalty through a longer term treatment programme. Therapists should be taking a three pronged approach when treating their clients:

1. Start with a detailed skin analysis, in order to really understand your client’s skin. Use skin imaging technology and take photos regularly to show progress.

2. Discuss and design a personalised treatment programme - the #100DayReset programme is ideal for both new and existing clients. Combine professional treatments with a personalised homecare routine to address the client’s concern. 

3. Treat from within. Skin nourished from the inside looks healthy on the outside. Clients who use appropriate supplements are likely to achieve far superior results. 

4. Use topical treatments that are about efficacy and integrity. Topical vitamin treatments that contain vitamin A have shown to make a dramatic difference to skin concerns. 

5. If clients are using the wrong kind of make-up it could undo all your hard work. Encourage the use of non-comedogenic cosmetics to avoid aggravating concerns. Remember, mineral make-up, such as jane iredale, is the best kind for clients with problematic skin as it allows the skin to breathe. 

2018 introduces the New Environ® Electro-Sonic DF Mobile Skincare Device to complement in-salon treatment at home and continue to target concerns from fine lines/wrinkles to hyper-pigmented marks and sun damage. Introduce this revolutionary new device to your clients’ prescribed Environ skincare routine to really maximise their Environ® Professional Facial Treatment outcomes.

The Rise of the Super Therapist 

As more and more clients visit professional salons seeking skincare advice and solutions, the role of tomorrow’s therapist will go beyond the in-salon pampering facial experience. Client retention will rely on evidencing knowledge, expertise and providing an authoritative answer based on science, results driven fact rather than marketing hype.

“There’s a new breed of beauty customer called ‘skintellectuals’,” says beauty expert Nadine Baggott “These are intelligent, affluent women who think seriously about skincare, the same way they think about what to eat or how they exercise. They are looking for something beyond the hype, for active ingredients at percentages that work. They’re not paying for pretty packaging or a tub of dreams.”

Ms Baggott also sees a significant change in modus operandi of this new skincare-savvy consumer. “They’re looking for solutions to problems rather than a promise,” she says. “Think acne, rosacea and sun damage.” This observation is borne out by a UK Mintel study that says 44% of consumers reported having a skin condition last year.

In response to this, David Alpert, Managing Director, iiaa Ltd comments: “The new Super Therapist will gain respect through pursuing the most effective skincare programme which combines a 360 degree holistic approach: consultation, lifestyle consideration, use of technology, feeding skin from the inside, fortifying it with vitamin and nutrient rich topical treatments and finishing with clean make-up that is good for the skin” 


2 Acne: The Role of Medical Nutrition Therapy - Journal of The Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics
3 AXA insurance
4 Journal of Investigative Dermatology: Traffi c-Related Air Pollution Contributes to Development of Facial Lentigines
5 British Association of Dermatologists